Tapai is Sabah's traditional fermented rice wine — a sweet, mildly alcoholic drink brewed in ceramic jars by the Kadazan-Dusun, Murut, and Rungus peoples for centuries. It's the drink of Kaamatan (the harvest festival), weddings, and ancestral ceremonies. If you want to taste indigenous Sabah, tapai is where you start.
What is tapai?
Tapai is a fermented beverage made from glutinous rice, a natural yeast starter called sasad (also known as ragi), and time. Cooked rice is cooled, mixed with crushed sasad, then sealed in ceramic jars (tajau) or glass containers for 7-14 days. The yeast converts the rice starches into sugar and alcohol, producing a cloudy liquid whose alcohol content varies a lot from batch to batch (NST, checked 7 October 2026). The Department of National Culture and Arts describes this short ferment as one to two weeks, and lihing as a longer ferment of two to three months (JKKN, checked 7 October 2026).
The flavour is unmistakable — sweet, slightly sour, with a yeasty warmth similar to unfiltered Japanese sake or Korean makgeolli. Older batches turn drier and stronger; younger batches taste almost like dessert. Kadazan elders can judge a tapai's age by smell alone.
Two dialects, one drink: Kadazan-Dusun speakers call it tapai, while some Dusun sub-groups use tapui. Both refer to the same product.
Tapai, lihing, or montoku — what's the difference?
These three drinks come from the same fermentation process but represent different stages. Knowing the difference helps you order correctly and understand what's in the jar.
| Drink | What it is | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Tapai | Fermented rice mash — cloudy, sweet, chunky | Casual drinking, ceremonies |
| Lihing | Rice wine from a longer ferment (two to three months or more), stronger than tapai | Sipping, cooking (lihing chicken) |
| Montoku | Distilled rice spirit, much stronger | Shots, special occasions |
In practice, young tapai is drunk soon after brewing, lihing is left to mature, and montoku is saved for guests or special occasions.
Why tapai matters at Kaamatan
Tapai is the drink of Kaamatan, Sabah's harvest festival, a state public holiday on 30-31 May (Sabah Government Printing Department 2026 calendar, checked 7 October 2026). The festival gives thanks for the rice harvest — and tapai, made from that same rice, is the symbolic offering. No Kaamatan celebration is complete without it.
At KDCA Penampang during the festival, stalls sell tapai and lihing by the jar, cup, or bamboo vessel. Families bring jars from home. Elders offer the first cup to the spirits of the rice fields (Bambaazon) before anyone drinks. It's poured freely during the Sumazau dance, Unduk Ngadau pageant, and communal feasts.
Tapai also plays a role in ritual. In traditional Kadazan-Dusun cosmology, rice is sacred — a gift from Huminodun, the maiden whose sacrifice created the harvest. Fermenting rice into tapai and sharing it with the community is both a celebration and an act of thanksgiving.
How tapai is made
Traditional tapai-making takes about two weeks and is usually done in village households, not factories. Here's the short version:
- Cook glutinous rice — about 2-3 kg per batch. Spread on banana leaves to cool.
- Mix with sasad starter — crushed yeast cakes made from rice flour, ginger, and local herbs. The sasad recipe varies by family and is often passed down generations.
- Pack into a jar — traditionally a ceramic tajau (Chinese-origin dragon jar), though glass or plastic jars work too.
- Seal and wait — one to two weeks for tapai; two to three months or longer for lihing, which can be kept for years.
- Drain lihing (optional) — tilt the jar and collect the clear liquid that separates from the mash.
The critical ingredient is sasad quality. Good sasad produces clean, fruity tapai. Bad sasad produces harsh, vinegary results. Village women who make their own sasad are regarded as master brewers and their tapai commands higher prices at tamus.
Where to try tapai in Sabah
You don't need to know anyone local to try tapai — these are the reliable spots, in order of authenticity.
| Place | Area | When |
|---|---|---|
| KDCA Penampang | Penampang | Kaamatan (May 30-31) |
| Donggongon Tamu | Penampang | Weekly tamu (check the day locally) |
| Tamu Kota Belud | Kota Belud | Weekly tamu (check the day locally) |
| Gaya Street Sunday Market | Kota Kinabalu | Sundays, 6am to 1pm (Sabah Tourism, checked 7 October 2026) |
| Tamu Tamparuli | Tamparuli | Weekly tamu (check the day locally) |
For the best experience, visit Penampang during Kaamatan — the atmosphere, the dancing, and the free-flowing tapai turn it into one of Sabah's most memorable cultural experiences. See our Kaamatan Visitor Guide for logistics.
Tips for tourists and first-timers
- Start small. Tapai tastes sweet, but it can be stronger than it tastes and strength varies by batch.
- Eat while you drink. Pair tapai with hinava, tuhau, sinalau bakas (smoked wild boar), or linopot (rice wrapped in leaves). The food slows the alcohol and balances the sweetness.
- Drink water alongside. Alternate each cup with water.
- Not halal. Tapai contains alcohol. Muslim visitors should avoid it.
- Ask before photographing ceremonies. Elders sometimes offer the first cup as a ritual to Bambaazon (the rice spirit). Photograph only with permission.
- Taking tapai home? Jars leak during flights. Double-bag them or look for sealed commercial bottles.
Frequently asked questions
What is tapai in Sabah?
Tapai is a traditional fermented rice beverage brewed by the Kadazan-Dusun, Murut, and Rungus peoples of Sabah. Glutinous rice is mixed with a yeast starter (sasad or ragi) and fermented in ceramic jars for 7-14 days or longer. The result is a sweet, mildly alcoholic drink, with an alcohol content that varies a lot between batches, served during Kaamatan, weddings, and community ceremonies.
What is the difference between tapai, lihing, and montoku?
Tapai is the fermented rice mash itself — the starting product, fermented for one to two weeks. Lihing comes from a longer fermentation of two to three months or more, giving a stronger, yellowish rice wine used for drinking and cooking (especially lihing chicken). Montoku is a distilled rice spirit — clear, much stronger, and often compared to Japanese shochu.
Is tapai halal?
No — tapai contains alcohol from natural fermentation and is not halal. It is brewed and consumed by Sabah's non-Muslim indigenous communities, primarily the Kadazan-Dusun, Murut, and Rungus peoples. Muslim visitors should avoid it; non-Muslim visitors are welcome to try it during Kaamatan and other cultural events.
Where can I buy tapai in Kota Kinabalu?
The most reliable places are the weekly tamu markets, such as Donggongon Tamu in Penampang and Tamu Kota Belud, and the Gaya Street Sunday Market in KK. During Kaamatan (May 30-31) KDCA Penampang has stalls selling tapai. Prices depend on quality and age, so ask the seller.
Is it safe for tourists to drink tapai?
Yes, tapai from reputable sellers at tamus, KDCA, or established restaurants is safe to drink. Buy from sellers you trust, start with a small cup (it is sweeter and stronger than it looks), and avoid homemade batches of unknown origin. Drink plenty of water alongside.