West Coast Bajau: Cowboys, Horses & Kota Belud Culture
Who are the Bajau of Sabah?
The Bajau are Sabah's second-largest ethnic group: the 2020 census counted 565,499 Bajau among Malaysian citizens, 16.5% of the state's residents (DOSM, Census 2020 Sabah, Table 5, checked 7 October 2026). They are Austronesian peoples speaking languages of the Sama-Bajau family — one of the most widely dispersed maritime language clusters in Southeast Asia, with related communities scattered across the Philippines, Indonesia, and Brunei.
In Sabah, the Bajau divide into two very different communities that share a name but little else: the West Coast Bajau (Bajau Darat, or Sama Taud) — the subject of this page — and the Bajau Laut (Sama Dilaut), the sea nomads of Semporna. The West Coast Bajau are settled, land-based Muslim farmers and fishermen, known for their horsemanship. They live on the west coast in districts such as Putatan, Tuaran, Kota Belud, Kota Marudu and Papar, and their riding skills have earned them the nickname "Cowboys of the East" (Sabah state government, checked 7 October 2026).
What is the difference between West Coast Bajau and Bajau Laut?
Despite sharing a name, the West Coast Bajau and Bajau Laut are culturally and geographically distinct, having diverged over centuries of very different lifestyles.
| Feature | West Coast Bajau (Bajau Darat) | Bajau Laut (Sama Dilaut) |
|---|---|---|
| Location | Kota Belud, Tuaran, Putatan, Papar | Semporna, Mabul, Omadal, Lahad Datu |
| Traditional lifestyle | Land-based farming, rice cultivation, horsemanship | Sea nomadic; boats and over-water stilt houses |
| Religion | Sunni Islam (devout) | Islam (some traditional animist practices remain) |
| Famous for | Horse parade, Tamu Besar Kota Belud, equestrian culture | Lepa boats, Regatta Lepa, free diving |
| Citizenship status | Malaysian citizens | Many stateless or undocumented; no official count |
| Language | West Coast Bajau; Malay widely spoken | Sama Dilaut, part of the East Coast Bajau language chain |
| Traditional architecture | Raised houses in land-based villages | Over-water stilt villages and lepa-lepa boats |
For the complete profile of the Bajau Laut and their current human rights situation, see the dedicated Bajau Laut guide.
Why are the Bajau called Cowboys of the East?
The "Cowboys of the East" nickname comes from the West Coast Bajau's extraordinary tradition of horseback riding. In Kota Belud district, Bajau men breed, train and ride horses, a rare tradition in a region where most indigenous peoples farmed on foot or travelled by boat.
The horses themselves are a Sabah institution. They are smaller than typical thoroughbred horses — closer to a sturdy pony — but are strong, sure-footed, and well-suited to the coastal lowlands of Kota Belud. The Bajau decorate their horses with elaborate ceremonial gear for the annual Tamu Besar: woven fabric saddle cloths, brass bells, colourful tassels, and ornamental headpieces. The riders wear their finest traditional attire — bright yellow and green with silver jewellery — and perform coordinated galloping displays across open fields.
Today the horse tradition is mainly ceremonial, but it remains a powerful symbol of Bajau identity and pride.
What is the Tamu Besar Kota Belud horse parade?
The Tamu Besar Kota Belud is an annual market and cultural festival in Kota Belud town, usually held over two days on a weekend. The Kota Belud tamu, first known as Tamu Tempasuk, is the oldest tamu in Sabah, started by William Pretyman, the first British Resident at Tempasuk, on 13 December 1878. A highlight of the Tamu Besar is the colourful parade of Bajau horsemen on decorated horses (Sabah Tourism, checked 7 October 2026).
The market brings together Bajau, Kadazan-Dusun and other communities from across northern Sabah, with local food and the district's handicrafts on sale. It is a market for local trade and community gathering, not mainly for tourists.
For visitors, the Tamu Besar offers a rare window into Bajau equestrian culture at its most ceremonial. Check the Sabah Tourism Board website for the current year's dates.
Beyond the Tamu Besar, Kota Belud's regular tamu runs every Sunday, with local produce and handicrafts such as handwoven baskets (Sabah Tourism, checked 7 October 2026).
Kota Belud makes a good day trip by car from Kota Kinabalu. For the Tamu Besar horse parade, arrange your own transport or join a tour from Kota Kinabalu, as public transport may be crowded.
What does traditional Bajau attire look like?
Traditional West Coast Bajau attire is visually striking, with bright, bold colours such as yellow, green, red and gold.
Women's attire: A bright-coloured blouse and sarong or skirt, often with gold thread embroidery, worn with an ornate headpiece and plenty of silver and gold-coloured jewellery for weddings and festivals.
Men's attire (horsemen): For the Tamu Besar, horsemen wear a bright-coloured satin or brocade baju (top) and sarong or pants, a silver-decorated belt, and a destar (ceremonial head covering). Silver kris sheaths and ornamental weaponry are carried as ceremonial accessories.
Bajau traditional attire is seen at its finest at the Tamu Besar and at weddings.
What language do the Bajau speak?
West Coast Bajau speak West Coast Bajau, one of two Bajau languages in Sabah; the other is East Coast Bajau. Each is a chain of dialects. Bajau and Suluk (Tausug) belong to different language groups, although borrowing has made them share many words (Smith, in King and King, 1984).
Malay is widely spoken as a second language, and many Bajau in towns use Sabah Malay in daily life, keeping Bajau for family and community settings.
The language carries an oral tradition of songs, stories and gong music, which is weakening in urban areas as young people shift to Malay.
What is Bajau traditional food and culture?
West Coast Bajau cuisine reflects their coastal location and agricultural lifestyle — seafood, rice, and tropical fruits are staples. Traditional Bajau dishes include:
Nasi Kuning (turmeric rice): Yellow rice cooked with coconut milk and turmeric, served at weddings and celebrations with curried fish or chicken. A visual and flavour centrepiece of Bajau festive food.
Ikan Bakar (Grilled Fish): Fresh fish from Tempasuk Bay grilled over charcoal with spice rubs. The coastal villages of Kota Belud are renowned for the quality of their daily catch including tenggiri (Spanish mackerel), kerapu (grouper), and prawns.
Kuih-muih Bajau: Traditional Bajau sweets and cakes, often made with coconut, glutinous rice, and palm sugar. Prepared in large quantities for Hari Raya celebrations.
Beyond food, Bajau cultural life centres on Islamic celebrations — Hari Raya (Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha) are the biggest community festivals, featuring communal prayers, open-house visits, and traditional music. Kompang (frame drum) processions are central to weddings, circumcision ceremonies, and Maulid al-Nabi celebrations.
What religion do the Bajau follow?
The West Coast Bajau are Sunni Muslim, and their Islamic identity is central to Bajau life.
The Friday mosque is the social and spiritual heart of every Bajau village. Masjid attendance, Quran recitation, and Islamic education are prioritised from childhood. The Bajau observe all Islamic practices including daily prayers, Ramadan fasting, and the Hajj pilgrimage for those who can afford it.
In Kota Belud, Bajau and Kadazan-Dusun communities live side by side, and friendships and marriages across ethnic and religious lines are common. The Sunday tamu, where people of every background shop and trade together, is a good example.
Where do the Bajau originally come from?
The origins of the Bajau are much debated. Their languages belong to the Sama-Bajau group of the Austronesian family, whose speakers are spread across the southern Philippines, eastern Indonesia and Borneo, and scholars have proposed several homelands. Bajau oral histories also tell of a dispersal from an earlier homeland.
The West Coast Bajau's horse tradition sets them apart from most other maritime peoples of the region, placing them between the sea and the farming world of Sabah.